TUAW Tip: Wipe down an old Mac with Target Disk Mode
A reader recently contacted us with a question regarding her decision to recycle an older iMac computer. She wanted to know how she could clear/reformat the hard drive, but didn't have the disks that came with the system. So, we thought we would take a minute to tell you how you can cleanse your hard drives before getting rid of your computer. I'm going to show you how to wipe the hard drive using Target Disk Mode, since this will work even if you don't have the install disks. Step 1: Get a FireWire Cable
Both of the Macs will need to have FireWire, which means everything between the iMac DV and the current lineup (except for the MacBook Air and unibody MacBook) is eligible. You will also need a FireWire 400 cable so you can connect one end to the old Mac, and the other end to another Mac. If you don't have one of these cables, you can easily pick up one online or at a retail store. If both of the Macs support FireWire 800, you can use one of those cables as an alternative to 400; it will be faster. If one has only a 400 port and the other has only an 800 port, a converter cable (available online for less than $10) is what you need. Once you have the FireWire cable, just simply connect the two computers together.
Step 2: Boot into Target Disk Mode on the old Mac
Shut down the old Mac that will be receiving the hard drive cleaning, and reboot it while holding down the "T" key on your keyboard. After a few moments, you should see a FireWire symbol appear on the screen -- when you see this, you are in FireWire Disk Mode (FDM). When in FDM, your old Mac's hard drive should show up on the new Mac as a connected external FireWire drive.
Step 3: Do some Disk Utility magic
Open Disk Utility.app on your new Mac (located in /Applications/Utilities), and click on your old Mac hard drive in the selection area on the left. Note that you should click on the drive, and not the partition (often called "Macintosh HD") to ensure a complete disk wipe. The disk drive will most likely have a FireWire icon to denote that it is connected as an external disk. Once you select the drive, click the Erase tab, and click Security options.In this section of Disk Utility, you will be able to select a few different erase options that will also add security to the standard disk erase. First, lets specify a name for the drive -- in the name field type what you would like the drive to show up as when it is erased, otherwise it will default to "Untitled."
Continue reading to learn about security options and how to fully erase the hard drive on an old Mac.
If you click the "Security Options..." button next to Erase you will be presented with a few options that can add security to a standard erase. By default, Disk Utility erases the disk directory instead of the data on the drive, meaning that a recovery utility could bring back your information. This is the least secure method, and isn't appropriate if you have sensitive items on the old drive. I recommend that you do a zero out or 7-pass erase. If you select 'zero out data,' your hard drive will have 0s written in place of all the information stored on the disk. If you want more security than that, you can select the 7-pass erase; with this method of erasing, the drive will be fully erased 7 times. This method is the same security measure that the United States Department of Defense recommends to securely erase magnetic media.
Once you select your method, click OK, and then click on the erase button. Depending on the erase method you selected and the size of the old drive, this process could take from a few minutes to several hours -- for a 7-pass erase on a large drive, I'd suggest starting it and letting it run overnight. Once it is erased, you will see the drive show back up in Disk Utility with the new name that you specified. At this time you can eject the disk from your new Mac and turn off the old Mac. Your old machine has been completely erased and you can rest assured that your important information will not get into the wrong hands. Of course, the old machine will need an OS install before it can be used, but that's the next person's problem.
For more tips and tricks like this, visit the TUAW Tips section of TUAW.
Share
A reader recently contacted us with a question regarding her decision to recycle an older iMac computer. She wanted to know how she could...
Add a Comment
I hit the T key and nothing happened. "new" computer is iBook G4; old is powerPC G3. Leopard on new; 10.3.2 on old
I tried several times; holding the t key before I started up, then after.
Can anyone tell me why?
If the G3 was recently reinstalled with 10.3, and I did an erase and install, is that enough? One friend says it isn't.
thanks
kt
I thought this might work for me, but my old iMac G3 is (alas) pre FireWire, with a hosed CD-ROM drive. Is target disk mode an option over my LAN? If not, how about a way to securely erase the "empty" parts of a drive? I don't really care if the OS is still installed...
May 11 2009 at 10:42 AM Report abuse Permalink rate up rate down ReplyOR you cou buy this program from Rixstep for the abosulte best erasure.
Everything depends upon the sensitivity of the data.
A 7 pass zero is adequate for many situations, but if the drive contained truly sensitive data it may be best to remove it and destroy it. One simple way used by some shops is drilling multiple holes through the drive. It is quick and effective.
If a drive is dead and the owner wants to return it under warranty, one of the few options is to use a hand-held electromagnet (like used to be used to erase reel-to-reel tape recordings) to degauss it thoroughly. If the data is truly sensitive, a warranty claim is probably not the best idea. Just destroy the drive.
Doing my part to help kill this myth... ONE PASS with dd is enough to securely erase any hard drive. Read this WHOLE PAGE if you don't believe me:
http://16systems.com/zero.php
Long story short: they ran DD on a drive, then called well-known data-recovery places. As soon as the recovery shops hear "DD" they say "No, can't be done." You don't need to do 3, 5, 7, or 99 passes with ones/zeroes/random to securely erase a disk.
So, data recovery places that you might pay for recovery, as needed, and as you hear it will cost more, you decide it's not worth it.
Sorry, but that's a fine a noble thought. Admirable really.
Truth is that your story is more about some noble quest for data recovery than for the rarer more brutal world of data gathering... people and organizations and governments are more well funded - and there is a market for this.
This topic pops up a few times a year on TUAW, and on we go about the best ways to wipe a drive. Three-passes, seven-passes, magnets, crushers, microwave ovens later, it turns out the easiest thing to do is take the drive out and stick it in a drawer, or take the drive itself apart and marvel at the innards. In any case, every techno joe knows reformatting doesn't do the trick.
April 27 2009 at 4:07 PM Report abuse Permalink rate up rate down ReplyCouldn't you just use dban?
April 27 2009 at 4:00 PM Report abuse Permalink rate up rate down ReplyWhy would you need target disk mode to do this? You can just boot off of any OS X install disc and choose "Disk Utility" from the Utilities in the Menu Bar.
April 27 2009 at 1:49 PM Report abuse Permalink rate up rate down ReplyI think that's covered in the second sentence...
April 27 2009 at 2:19 PM Report abuse Permalink rate up rate down ReplyKyahx,
Well, maybe and maybe not. As jollyllama points out, the assumption of the article is that the original Mac OS X DVD that came with the Mac is no longer available. So how do you prepare the hard drive for resale?
Well, for TUAWs tip to work, the user has to have access to another Mac. If this other Mac happens to be EXACTLY the same model, you might be able to simply use this other Macs' DVD to reformat the to-be-sold Mac. Otherwise, your out of luck, because unless the DVD comes from a Mac that is EXACTLY the same model then you will see the message, "Mac OS X cannot be installed on this computer." You can't even access Disk Utility from the Utilities menu since it is grayed-out.
On the other hand, if you happen to have a retail copy of Mac OS X ($129.00), you will likely be able to boot from it and at least have access to Disk Utility, even if it is Jaguar, Panther, or Tiger depending on how old the to-be-sold Mac is. You'll probably not want to install a copy of Mac OS X that you have registered for yourself, but at least you will have been able to wipe the drive before you sold it.
So TUAWs tip really comes in handy if you don't have these other options available. Cheers!
So here's the question: If the "zero out" erase mode overwrites all data on the drive with zeroes, why would anyone need to use the "7-pass" mode for "extra" security? It seems to me that the data is either overwritten or not. Why overwrite the data seven times to make sure it's really gone? On the face of it, this seems absurdly redundant.
April 27 2009 at 12:23 PM Report abuse Permalink rate up rate down ReplyThe key (and incorrect) assumption you make is that the physical medium has two states, 1 and 0. The data does, but the drive does not. Every time you flip a bit, it's never quite right; it's somewhere between that 1 and 0 state.
Your data would likely be gone to most OS kernels and disk recovery/repair tools. However, if somebody were to get your drive, they could reconstitute the data by examining the degree to which bits were misaligned. This is why the secure erase "combs" your drive by putting garbage data over it several times; this way, even determining what that bit was two-three iterations before won't help. Security isn't about defeating the benign user, it's about defeating the determined, malicious and well-equipped one.
I agree w/ Derek above, you need to change the title. I thought you were going to show us some hard drive optimization or the like. If my dad reads this, I know I will be getting a call about a nuked hard drive soon.
You are not "cleaning" a hard drive in the defragmentation sense, you are "cleaning" a hard drive in the Winston Wolf, Pulp Fiction kind of way. "Erase" is a better term, or "Re-Format" or "Destroy the Contents Of..."
Oh brother, the phone is ringing...
Hot Apps on TUAW
Deals of the Day
more deals- miFrame Picture Frame Dock for iPad for $64 + $8 s&h
- Refurb Apple iPod nano 8GB MP3 Player for $99 + free shipping, 16GB for $119
- Bling Diamond Snap-On Shell Case for iPhone 4 / 4S for $2 + $2 s&h
- Hannspree Apple-Shaped 28" 1080p LCD HDTV for $270 + free shipping
- Philips wOOx Alarm Clock Radio for Apple iPod / iPhone for $60 + free shipping
- iWatchz Elemetal Collection Bracelet for iPod nano for $75 + free shipping
Software Updates
more updates- EFI Firmware Update brings Lion Internet Recovery to 2010-model Macs
- OS X Lion 10.7.3 released with Safari 5.1.3, Wi-Fi bug fix
- Aperture updated to 3.2.2, addresses Photo Stream issue
- Apple updates Keynote to address Lion issues
- Google Search app gets new look on iPad
- Apple releases Apple TV Software Update 4.4.3



19 Comments